Greetings from Yarraman
As most of you know, Nancy and I have spent many years living and working in remote communities in the Northern Territory - initially amongst the Yolngu people of north east Arnhem Land. During those times we have enjoyed experiences that few people get to enjoy. I would like to share one with you.
Recently, while going through some old photos I came across a sequence, when I accompanied three Yolngu men hunting green turtles and then the subsequent cooking process.
Two of these men are no longer with us so out of respect for Yolngu customs I will not use their names but instead use their 'malk' or calling name. In the photo below, Ngarritj holds the harpoon while two brothers assist - both Gudjuk.
Narritj is the Yolngu man who adopted me back in 1984 hence I also have this same calling name.
The Gudjuk on the right is the Yolngu man I worked with when I first went to Arnhem Land - a dear friend. I have many great memories of working, hunting, fishing and camping with him. He patiently taught me his language and his ways.
Before we go turtle hunting, funny story. Back in 1984 some government people flew into Gapuwiyak and spoke at a community meeting. I don't recall now what they talked about, however I will never forget Gudjuk's comment afterwards, about the government people. He said, ' Nhungu matha nakun djunda'. Literal translation - Your tongue is like a goanna. Goannas have a forked tongue. Gudjuk had formed the view that the government people were not being completely honest and he didn't trust them. Very insightful! Especially, when considering his limited exposure to Balanda (non-indigenous people) at that time.
To hunt sea turtles, firstly you need to go to their foraging areas - which are shallow, sheltered areas with plenty of sea grass. Turtles periodically surface for air however mostly the hunters need to spot them while they are under the surface. This requires good, well trained eyes to spot them. At a distance this may be just a very faint shadow in the water.
Once spotted, the turtle tries to escape the hunters. They can put on a surprising turn of speed and are very skilled at stopping and/or changing direction very quickly. If the hunters don't lose contact with the turtle, it eventually tires and slows. This is when the photo below was taken.
When a clear shot is available the harpoon is driven into the turtle's shell which is attached to a rope and float. The rope and float are thrown overboard and the turtle goes for another 'run'. When the turtle slows, the float and rope is retrieved. The photo below shows Gudjuk holding the first harpoon rope. The turtle continues to pull the boat around for some time at good speed while staying as deep as possible. If the hunters pull too hard on the first rope while the turtle still has plenty of energy the harpoon could pull out of the shell and the turtle escapes. So, especially on a larger turtle a second harpoon is used. Below, Ngarritj is waiting with the second harpoon.
Once the second harpoon is used, the hunters hold both ropes while the turtles 'runs' again. Eventually the turtle is brought alongside the boat and it is lifted into the boat. This was a large turtle which required a big effort from all four of us.
Below, with the turtle onboard, we head back to Balma Outstation - on the eastern coast of Arnhem Land northwest of Groote Eylandt. Ngarritj on the left and Gudjuk on the right.
Back in late 1985, Gudjuk and I had to replace a clutch in a tip truck while the local road works team were constructing an airstrip at Balma. That was quite a challenge! It was during the hot and humid 'build up' period and we had to work in the sand, as we were 120 kms from our workshop - along a rough bush track. We placed one of the steel sides off the truck underneath to provide a firm base for the floor jack to roll on.
Once back at Balma, the word quickly spread that the turtle hunters have been successful. Everyone was excited and a 'well oiled' process springs into action - fire wood is gathered and a big fire is lit, rocks are heated, the turtle's head is removed and then the inner organs and intestines.
The heated rocks along with special leaves for flavour are placed into the empty body cavity with the turtle positioned with the head end pointing up (see photo below) and then the turtle is placed on the coals. The organs are cooked and eaten while waiting for the turtle to cook. The djamarrkuli (children) swim in the creek while the turtle is cooked. Special care needs to be taken because as crocodiles numbers increase, they are pushing further and further up rivers and creeks.
The old man below keeps a watchful eye of the whole process. He is the 'djunggaya' or manager of his mother's clan's estate which includes green turtles. Proper processes must be followed. The hunters and the elders must get certain cuts of the turtle. Nothing is wasted. This is all part of a wider division of power and cross checks and balances in Yolngu people's ways - sometimes referred to as 'Yothu Yindi'. This is also the name of a well known Arnhem Land band - however it is much more than the name of a band.
When the turtle is removed from the coals it is turned onto it's back and the bottom plate of the shell is cut off. This reveals all the meat in the inverted bowl shaped shell. The old lady in the photo below is a senior Djarrwark elder, on who's estate the turtle was taken.
Everyone at Balma went to sleep that night happy and with a full stomach.
Reflections - these three Yolngu men were all born in the bush, all delivered by traditional mid-wives or marranggitj. They had limited contact with mainstream Australia until they were in their mid-teens. Pioneering mission aviator, Harold Shepherdson used to land his Cessna on the clay pans near the Koolatong River - only in the dry season. There were no airstrips in those days. Harold or Sheppy, as he was known by most, would trade goods for salted crocodile skins. These three men all helped their fathers in the catching, skinning and salting of the crocodiles.
Their fathers (all deceased now) were boys when a massacre occurred at nearby Gangan at the hands of mounted police in the late 1920s. These men were also members of a Coastal Reconnaissance Unit in WW2. Sadly, they had to wait until 1995 or 50 years to receive their service medals. By then many had passed away.
The three man involved in the turtle hunt had to negotiate a huge amount of change in their life times. It was a very special privilege to share part of their life's journey with them.
Until next time, take care.
Bryan
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