Across Skye to Benbecula, Macdonald Country!

TUESDAY - Today there was lots of blue sky and sunshine with little or no wind. We had planned to spend a day or two driving through Skye enjoying it's scenery and history. However a couple of very helpful local young ladies or should that be a couple of 'bonnie wee lassies',  suggested that we take advantage of the great weather go immediately to Uig and take the ferry to North Uist. From here we could drive through Benbecula and South Uist via causeways. With an island hopping Ferry Pass we could move on to the Isles of Harris and Lewis and after that back to Skye. We took their advice.

The drive across the Isle of Skye to the ferry terminal at Uig was a spectacular mix of mountain and coastal scenery made even better by the calm and clear weather conditions. As we approached Uig we could see the ferry coming into the harbour. We had just enough time to buy the ferry tickets and take a few photos and it was time to board the ferry. The  fair weather made the 1 hour 45 minutes voyage passed very quickly.

As we drove across North Uist to Benbecula the lack of trees was most notable. The wind was not an issue today however we could see that when it was, it would literally blow straight off the Atlantic Ocean and whistle over this exposed landscape. There were also lochs and marshes everywhere. The causeway from North Uist to Benbecula was in fact many causeways from one small piece of land to another and so on. The tide was out so most of the waterways were empty. As we drove along a truck passed with the name on it 'A. Macdonald & Co'. and then a sign advertising 'D. Macdonald's Building Company'. There are Macdonalds everywhere here! Though it was late in the day we drove around through Aird on the west coast of Benbecula and stopped for a short while at the cemetery.There were many Macdonald headstones indicated we were in the right place. Anyway, that will have to wait until tomorrow. Another very enjoyable day in Scotland!

WEDNESDAY - We were directed to 82 year old Alex McPhee who was the caretaker of the local cemetery. We found him and his son, Donald working in a field, stacking straw - in the traditional way. They were most helpful directing us to some Macdonalds who we believed were related to us. Donald and his wife also operated a hostel in the old Clanranald clan chief's house. They have turned out to be very warm and friendly hosts.

Iain and his wife Katrina Macdonald were descendants of Donald and Ann Macdonald and therefore we believed were our relations. They welcomed us warmly and arranged to meet Iain's older brother Roderick and sister Chrissie who lived near by. Roderick lives on the old original croft, as have many generations of Macdonalds before him.

None of them could recall family members talking about any relatives departing for Australia. As with many of us, they regretted not asking their parents and grand-parents more questions when they were still alive. They were able to tell us about the crofting history and how the clan chiefs made life very difficult for their clan members. Iain stated that the cattle and sheep were treated better. The Clanranalds  got into financial problems in the early 1700s trying to keep up with the high society set in London and had  to sell their estate to a Colonel Gordon of Cluny. He turned out to be a tyrant and started forcibly clearing people off his new estate so he could run more sheep and cattle. Many of these people ended up in Canada however some went to Australia.

THURSDAY - We took a drive across another series of causeways and down through South Uist. The weather was continuing to be very kind. These islands for the most part are quite flat and not far above sea level. Iain Macdonald told us of how in his lifetime the sea level has risen around one foot (300 mm) and they no longer receive the snow and frosts they used to which he believes has lead to a build up of 'bugs' in the soil.

There are very few trees on these islands. Traditionally, peat was used as a fuel source however oil and gas became popular some decades ago. With the increasing oil and gas prices in recent times, peat has made a comeback. Peat is cut from the bogs or mors which then has to be dried before use. Piles of peal can be seen stacked near houses ready for winter. In the evening, Iain and Katrina took us out for a terrific meal at a local restaurant. We tried Carrigean, a local desert made from sea weed - not bad.

FRIDAY - Today we took a drive north through North Uist, including a drive through Balelone where many years ago a Murdock McKay and his family lived and worked. Murdock was a shepherd. He and his family went to Australia as part of the clearances in the 1850s. We believed that one of his daughters, Isabella married a John Macdonald in Melbourne back in 1853 and therefore was Bryan's great, great grand mother. There are many challenges when tracing family trees especially when they stretch across the seas and across the centuries to times when records were nothing like they are today.

We have found that we have to really listen carefully to understand these Scottish people with their strong accents and with some Gaelic thrown in sometimes too. They are very keen to hold on to their identity. Gaelic is now taught in all schools in these islands.

Next year there will be a vote to decide whether Scotland will gain independence from the rest of the UK. From the talk we have heard, there will be a strong 'yes' vote in this part of Scotland.

From the Isle of Skye looking back towards the mainland.

Some fisherman prepare to set lobster pots.

Even around midday it was still calm adding to the magnificent Isle of Skye scenery.

The town of Uig in the north of Skye. The inbound ferry can be seen  to left of the photo.  This is the ferry that took us to North Uist.

The Isle of Skye disappears as we make our way to North Uist.

Coming into Lochmaddy, the ferry terminal on North Uist. From here we drove across North Uist to Benbecula.

The cemetery near Aird of Benbecula. Many of the old graves are only marked by a stone with no engraving making family history research challenging.  

Some here in the Hebrides Island still making their hay the old way. They say it works better with their weather. The straw is gathered into small bundles and then a few days later these bundles are combined into the larger stacks and then twine is wound around the stacks to prevent the strong winds they experience here from blowing the stacks apart. 

The Clanranald's old stables dating back to the 1600s.

We are staying in the large building on the right. It is a hostel run by the McPhie family and has been very comfortable. It was the Clanranald chief's house. The oldest parts date back to 1659. Flora Macdonald is suppose to have hidden Bonnie Prince Charlie here while he was running for his life from the English king.

The beach here which faces the Atlantic Ocean. The locals assured us that this is not the usual weather for Benbecula. Aird (which means headland etc) is at the far end of the beach. 

Left to right - Iain Macdonald, Bryan and Roderick Macdonald (Roddy)

Iain Macdonald with his sister Chrissie McKay.

Chrissie's son (right), daughter in law and granddaughter (left) and Iain second from the right. 

A Scottish desert - Carrigean (in the wine glass), made from  sea weed.

An old thatched house. The rocks tied around the edges are not there for looks. The wind here comes straight off the Atlantic Ocean.

Typical Scenery on the western side of these islands - flat and lots of lochs.

Some men doing a bit of fishing in one of the many lochs.

One of the many causeways linking the islands.

Don't mess with me!!!

Friday the weather was overcast with rain in the afternoon. 

Grey skies and wind - a more typical day for these islands. The locals say that tree planting has been tried however most are promptly blown over.

Peat is making a come back as a household fuel. It is cut wet from the bogs or mors and then dried. This stack is at the place where we are staying.

Peat in the basket ready for the fire.

Now that is a fire place! It is the fire place in the original part of the old Clanranald chief's house. And, if it could talk,  there would lots of stories it could tell.  It dates back to 1659.